Thursday, July 11, 2024

how to crochet a cute bucket hat of any size (customisable & beginner friendly pattern)

Hi everyone! With this pattern, you can crochet yourself or your pets (or stuffed animals!) a bucket hat with a really cute frilly trim. 

A note on the pattern for beginners:

This summer, I had the opportunity to teach an in-person crochet course to a group of lovely girls at Wild About Art Co studio in Bahrain. All of them were complete beginners when I taught them how to make this bucket hat, so if you're a beginner, you can make this too. You can see how their hats turned out in the picture above! Using what I learned from teaching them, I adjusted this pattern to make it even easier. You do not need to know how to make or work with a magic ring! I understand how confusing and frustrating magic rings can be for beginners, that's why I've included an easier alternative for which you just need to chain and slip stitch for. I've also included extra commentary and tried to explain things in as much detail as I can, I hope that helps you create this bucket hat and I'm so glad that I get to be a part of your crochet journey!

Here are a few things to keep in mind while using this pattern:

To make this, you should know how to make a slip knot, chain, double crochet, and slip stitch. Apart from that, I have included step-by-step instructions for crocheting in a round and how to increase stitches. That being said, I can't wait to see what you come up with! Please tag me in your creations (or send me a picture!) and feel free to DM me on Instagram (@mahumcrochets) if you have any questions.

Materials & Terminology:

I used a 4.5 mm hook and 2 yarn colors appropriate for that hook size. Abbreviations: CH - chain, DC - double crochet, SS - slip stitch, increase - insert 2 stitches into the same stitch (explained further in the pattern too).

Part 1: The crown (top of the bucket hat)

Round 1 (total 10 stitches) - [if you know how to make a magic ring, please skip the steps in pink and instead just make a magic ring] start by making a slip knot and ch 5, ss into the first ch that you made (this will make a circle in between your chains, you can use this method as a substitute for magic ring), ch 2 and insert 10 dc into your circle, insert the hook into the top of the ch 2 you made at the beginning and ss to end the round.

Round 2 (total 20 stitches) -  start the next round with ch 2, from now on you're going to be working into the dc stitches made in the previous rounds, insert 2 dc into the same stitch for every stitch around the round (inserting 2 stitches into the same stitch is called an increase), ss into the top of the ch 2 to end the round.

Round 3 (total 30 stitches) - start the next round with ch 2, repeat the pattern in asterisks all around the round * dc, increase (for beginners: insert 2 dc into the same stitch)*, ss into the top of the ch 2 to end the round.

Round 4 (total 40 stitches) - start the next round with ch 2, repeat the pattern in asterisks all around the round * dc, dc, increase*, ss into the top of the ch 2 to end the round.

Round 5 (total 50 stitches) -  start the next round with ch 2, repeat the pattern in asterisks all around the round * dc, dc, dc, increase*, ss into the top of the ch 2 to end the round.

TO CUSTOMISE THE SIZE: keep doing rounds until the top of your bucket hat is as big as your head (or your pet's or whoever you're making it for!). As you continue doing the rounds for the top part, add 1 more dc to the pattern in asterisks before your increase each time. So for example, in round 6, you would do *dc, dc, dc, dc, increase*. Don't forget to ch 2 before you start your next round and ss into the top of the ch 2 to end each round. For reference, my students and I did 6-8 rounds for our hats + I did 3 rounds for my kitten's hat.

Part 2: The body

For the body, you don't have to do any increases in the rounds. Start each round with a ch 2, insert 1 dc into every stitch around the round, end with a ss into the top of the ch 2. Do as many rounds as needed to fit your head.

Part 3: The frilly brim & other customizations

Round 1: after finishing the rounds for the body of the hat, start the next round with a ch 2, insert 1 dc into the BACK LOOPS only of every stitch around the round, end the round with a ss into the top of the ch 2. Crocheting in the back loops makes the frill part of your hat curve outwards!

For the next rounds, we will follow the same technique as the crown of the hat.

Round 2: start with a ch2, repeat the pattern in asterisks till the end of the round *dc, dc, increase*, ss to end the round.

Round 3 onwards: start the rounds with a ch 2, as you continue doing the rounds, add 1 more dc to the pattern in asterisks before your increase each time. For example, in round 3 the pattern will be *dc, dc, dc, increase*, end with a ss into the top of the ch 2.

CUSTOMIZATIONS: to create a border around your hat - attach a different colored yarn into any stitch at the brim with a knot, ch 1 and insert 1 single crochet into every stitch around the brim. if you want a thicker border, ch 2 and insert 1 dc into every stitch instead. To end the border, ss into the first ch you made and ch 1 or 2 to fasten off and cut. Alternatively, you could also make the frill section of the hat a completely different color (like the blue/pink hat shown in the cover picture above). To do that, fasten off the color you were using for the body first, then attach the different colored yarn into any stitch before you start the frill part!

And you're done!

I hope you found this pattern helpful, I'm still in the process of learning and trying to navigate the crochet community, so I'd love feedback from you! Please let me know what could've been improved or just your general thoughts on the pattern. I can't wait to see what you all create, don't forget to tag me on Instagram, and happy crocheting!

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photo card/polaroid picture cover with cat ears pattern

Hi everyone, here's an adorable photo cover with cat ears! The size is completely customizable and your piece will be made to measure.

A note on the pattern: I ran out of storage while traveling and had to delete some things from my camera roll. I accidentally deleted some pictures for the steps, but I've tried to make everything as clear as possible. If you have any questions, please DM me on Instagram! 

Materials & Terminology: I used a 4.5 mm hook and yarn appropriate for that hook size. Abbreviations: CH - chain, SC - single crochet, SS - slip stitch, SC2TOG - single crochet 2 stitches together, this is basically a sc decrease where you insert hook into a stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on your hook), insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops of your hook), yarn over and pull through all the 3 loops on the hook. 

Part 1: The back

Start with a slip knot and ch till the length is slightly bigger on all sides of your photo (something like the picture on the left).

Sc into every ch across the row, turn your work, then sc into every stitch across the row again, keep doing this till the height is what you want. To make the edges neater, I didn't ch 1 (the turning ch) after every row as we usually do. The first stitch of the row will be hard to insert your hook into without that turning ch 1, but the edges will turn out much neater.

Part 2: The front

Start with a slip knot and chain the length that's the same as your back part, sc into every ch across the row, continue turning your work and inserting 1 sc into every stitch across the row till you have the height you want for the bottom border. 

Now you're going to start one of the side borders - sc into the stitches till the width is what you want (please make sure it's an even number of stitches for the side borders), turn your work and sc into every stitch across your row till the height is 1 less row than what you want. So for example, my back part is made up of a total of 16 rows, my bottom border is 2 rows and I will do 2 rows for the top border too. Since the front part has to be the same size as the back part, that means that I have to make my side borders with 12 rows in between the bottom and top border. So, my first side border is 11 rows (1 less than what I want).

Once you're done with the first side border, you can fasten off your work and cut. Then, attach the yarn on the other side with a knot to start the second border. Continue to sc into every stitch for the width you want, turn your work then sc into every stitch across the row, do the same number of rows as your first border + 1 more row (I did 12 rows). The next step involves a little bit of math: ch the number that is *the total number of ch you made at the start of your project - the number stitches you used to make the first and second side borders* (subtract). For example, I had 13 ch at the start of my project, I did 4 sc in each row for my first and second borders which is 8 in total. So, 13 - 8 which is 5. I felt that my ch was stretching a lot so I did 2 extra ch too. 

Sc into the stitches of your first border (this is the row that we didn't do while making this border). Turn your work and do the same number of sc rows as your bottom border. 

Part 3: The cat ears (please also refer to the "materials & terminology" paragraph at the top for an explanation of sc2tog)

Do not fasten off after you're done with the front part, turn your work and sc into the same number of stitches as your side borders. Turn your work and sc2tog across the row, repeat turning your work and sc2tog until you have just 1 stitch left at the top. 

Ch 1 and ss down the side of your ear and across the top of the top border to get to the other side. When you have the same number of stitches left as your side border, sc into them. Turn your work and sc2tog the rows till you have 1 stitch left at the top (just like on the other side). Ch 1 or 2 to fasten off and cut.

Optional step: to make the lighter part of the ear, ch till the length is slightly smaller than the ears you made, do rows of sc2tog till you have 1 stitch left at the top, ch 1 or 2 to fasten off and cut. Make 2 of these lighter ears, then you can sew them onto the larger ears. 

Part 4: Joining the front and back pieces

Usually, crochet pieces are joined together on the wrong sides with the right sides facing inwards. But I really like the neat look I get when I ss on top of the right sides. You can choose any way that you're comfortable with to join your front and back piece together! Here's what I did:

Attach the yarn at the top of one of the cat ears with a knot (I started on the left ear shown in the picture), ss down the side of the cat ear till you reach the border part, ss around the front and back pieces together by inserting your hook in both the sides. You can ch 1 or 2 to fasten off and cut here or...

Optional step: when you reach the end of the border, ch the length you want for the clasp/chain, ss into the back piece, ch 1 or 2 to fasten off and cut. 

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And you're done!

I hope you found this pattern helpful, I'm still in the process of learning and trying to navigate the crochet community, so I'd love feedback from you! Please let me know what could've been improved or just your general thoughts on the pattern. I can't wait to see what you all create, don't forget to tag me on Instagram, and happy crocheting!

Tuesday, July 9, 2024

crochet love letter book sleeve pattern (the cutest way to gift a book!)

Hi everyone! Here's a Pinterest-inspired love letter book sleeve that's made to measure.

A note on this pattern: I've included step-by-step instructions with pictures for how I made the book sleeve part and heart charm, but if you're a complete beginner, you might not be able to make this. This pattern is similar to my "it ends with us" inspired book sleeve, but uses single crochet instead of half double. Additionally, with this pattern, I'm taking credit for the way in which I crocheted the book sleeve and heart to look like a letter, NOT the idea behind it since I came across the concept on Pinterest. That being said, I can't wait to see what you come up with! Please tag me in your creations (or send me a picture!) and feel free to DM me on Instagram (@mahumcrochets) if you have any questions.

Materials & Terminology:

I used a 4.5 mm hook, off-white and red yarn appropriate for that hook size, and a titch button to secure the sleeve when closed. Abbreviations (US terms): SC - single crochet, SS - slip stitch, CH - chain, DC - double crochet, TC - triple crochet, SC2TOG - single crochet 2 stitches together, this is basically a sc decrease, to do this: insert hook into a stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on your hook), insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops of your hook), yarn over and pull through all the 3 loops on the hook.

Part 1: The body of the sleeve

Start by making a slipknot and chain the length of your book's spine, sc into the 2nd ch from your hook, sc 1 in each ch till the end of the row, when you reach the last ch - sc 3 into that same ch.

Now you'll be working on the other side of your chains not on top of the sc row that you just made. Insert 1 sc into every bottom ch till the end of the row, when you reach the space where you inserted your very first sc in the beginning - insert 2 more sc into the same ch space (total 3 sc in that space), now you'll be working in rounds without any increases or chains in between - keep inserting 1 sc into every stitch till the sleeve is as big as you want.



Part 2: The envelope flap

Once the body of your sleeve is as big as you want, stop crocheting in rounds and instead do 2-3 rows of sc. To do this: sc halfway around your sleeve (like the arrow in the picture), turn your work and sc into the same stitch that you just made, sc 1 in every stitch till the end of the row, continue doing 2-3 rows (start a new row by turning your work and sc into the last stitch you made at the end of the previous row). These rows will cover your book when you close the "love letter", if you don't do them then the corners of your book will show when you close the flap.


To make the triangle part, start your new row with a sc2tog (see the "materials & terminology" part for how to do this), sc 1 in every stitch across the row till you have 2 stitches left, sc2tog to end the row.

Start the next row by turning your work, then sc2tog, sc 1 in every stitch across the row till you have 2 stitches left, sc2tog to end the row. Repeat doing rows till you have 1 stitch left at the top, ch 1 or 2 to fasten off and cut.

To make the flap neater, we're going to do a border of ss down both sides of the triangle. Attach your yarn with a knot at one end of the triangle (any bottom side), ss around the sides of the triangle (there's no definite place to insert your hook so just insert it as closest to the edge as you can), ch 1 or 2 to fasten off and cut.

Part 3: The Heart <3

Start by making a magic ring and ch 2. 
Insert all of the next stitches into the magic ring: 
3 tc, 3 dc, ch 1, 1 tc, ch 1, 3 dc, 3 tc, ch 2, ss into the magic ring, ch 1 or 2 then cut and fasten off by tightening the ends.
I added a titch button to my book sleeve to keep the flap secure when I close it. Then, I sewed the heart onto the flap.

And you're done!

I hope you found this pattern helpful, I'm still in the process of learning and trying to navigate the crochet community, so I'd love feedback from you! Please let me know what could've been improved or just your general thoughts on the pattern. I can't wait to see what you all create, don't forget to tag me on Instagram, and happy crocheting!


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Monday, July 8, 2024

heart cushion written pattern (continuation of my youtube tutorial!)

Hi everyone! Here's the written pattern for rounds 1-12 of my heart cushion cover. You can find the demonstration/steps for rounds 1-5 and how to read this pattern and make the stitches in my youtube tutorial.

Abbreviations: ch - chain / sc - single crochet / hdc - half double crochet / dc - double crochet / ss - slip stitch

Please note that the steps on ending each round and attaching a new color to your work (ss + ch 1) are explained with demonstrations in my youtube tutorial. I strongly recommend that you watch the full video before attempting to continue the rounds with this written pattern since I explain in detail how to make sense of the way it's written as I crochet each stitch in real time.

IMPORTANT: there are no mistakes in this pattern! Some people just haven't read the instructions correctly and I apologize to everyone that got confused by their comments. Please ignore them because I've successfully crocheted multiple projects (both pieces of the cushion, 2 bags of different sizes, wall hanging) following this exact pattern and never faced a problem with the stitches.

Round 1:

Slipknot, ch 8, dc into 3rd ch from your hook, 1 dc, 3 dc x 2, 1 dc, 4 dc, *now work on the other side of the ch*, in the same stitch as the previous 4 dc - 3 dc (total 7 dc in that stitch), dc 4 together, 6 dc, end the round and attach your next color (ss + ch 1)

Round 2:

2 hdc (in the same stitch as the ss from the previous round), 1 hdc x 4, 3 dc, 1 hdc x 4, 2 hdc x 2, 3 hdc x 2, 2 hdc, 1 sc, sc 2 together, 1 sc, 2 hdc, 3 hdc x 2, 2 hdc, end the round and attach your next color (ss + ch 1)

Round 3:

1 hdc x 7, 2 dc x 2, 1 hdc x 8, 2 hdc x 6, 1 sc x 2, sc 4 together, 1 sc x 2, 2 hdc x 6, 1 hdc, end the round and attach your next color (ss + ch 1)

Round 4:

1 hdc x 9, 3 dc, 1 hdc x 12, *2 hdc, 1 hdc* x 4, 2 sc, 1 sc x 2, sc 2 together, 1 sc x 2, 2 sc, *1hdc, 2 hdc* x 4, 1 hdc x 3, end the round and attach your next color (ss + ch 1)

Round 5:

1 hdc x 10, 2 dc x 2, 1 hdc x 13, *2 hdc, 1 hdc x 2* x 4, 2 sc, 1 sc, sc 4 together, 1 sc, 2 sc, *1 hdc x 2, 2 hdc* x 4, 1 hdc x 3, end the round and attach your next color (ss + ch 1)

Round 6: 

1 hdc x 12, 3 dc, 1 hdc x 15, *2 hdc, 1 hdc x 3* x 4, 2 sc, sc x 2, sc 2 together, sc x 2, 2 sc, *1 hdc x 3, 2 hdc* x 4, 1 hdc, end the round and attach your next color (ss + ch 1)

Round 7: 

1 hdc x 13, 2 dc x 2, 1 hdc x 13, *2 hdc, 1 hdc x 4* x 4, 2 sc, sc x 2, sc 4 together, sc x 2, 2 sc, *1 hdc x 4, 2 hdc* x 4, 1 hdc x 2, end the round and attach your next color (ss + ch 1)

Round 8:

1 hdc x 15, 3 dc, 1 hdc x 16, *2 hdc, 1 hdc x 5* x 4, 2 sc, sc x 2, sc 2 together, sc x 2, 2 sc, *1 hdc x 5, 2 hdc* x 4, 1 hdc, end the round and attach your next color (ss + ch 1)

Round 9:

1 hdc x 16, 2 dc x 2, 1 hdc x 17, *2 hdc, 1 hdc x 6* x 4, 2 sc, sc x 2, sc 2 together, sc x 2, 2 sc, *1 hdc x 6, 2 hdc* x 4, 1 hdc, end the round and attach your next color (ss + ch 1)

Round 10:

1 hdc x 18, 3 dc, 1 hdc x 19, *2 hdc, 1 hdc x 7* x 4, 2 sc, sc x 2, sc 2 together, sc x 2, 2 sc, *1 hdc x 7, 2 hdc* x 4, 1 hdc, end the round and attach your next color (ss + ch 1)

Round 11:

1 hdc x 19, 2 dc x 2, 1 hdc x 20, *2 hdc, 1 hdc x 8* x 4, 2 sc, sc x 2, sc 2 together, sc x 2, 2 sc, *1 hdc x 8, 2 hdc* x 4, 1 hdc, end the round and attach your next color (ss + ch 1)

Round 12:

1 hdc x 21, 3 dc, 1 hdc x 22, *2 hdc, 1 hdc x 9* x 4, 2 sc, sc x 2, sc 2 together, sc x 2, 2 sc, *1 hdc x 9, 2 hdc* x 4, 1 hdc, end the round and attach your next color (ss + ch 1)

If you want to do more than 12 rounds to make it bigger:

The lovely @bellamakesnz made an XL version of the heart pillow, you can follow her pattern for rounds 18-30 here: click me! 

OR End the rounds the same way (with ss + ch 1) then insert 1 hdc in each stitch around the heart. This will not affect the shape of your heart since you'll already have a base of rounds that give it the heart shape.

To connect the 2 heart pieces together and make the cushion:

Ss both the pieces together. Please watch the youtube tutorial for this part!

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Sunday, July 7, 2024

how to crochet cute earmuffs (heart, star, & flower shape)

 


Hi everyone! Here are the written patterns for the pieces I crocheted in my "crochet diaries" vlog on youtube. You can also find a detailed video tutorial that shows you how to crochet around the headband on my youtube channel here.

Abbreviations used:
ch - chain / sc - single crochet / ss - slip stitch / hdc - half double crochet / dc - double crochet / tc - triple crochet

Pattern explanations:
If the number comes before the stitch name - insert that number into the same stitch. Eg. 2 hdc means that you have to insert 2 hdc into the same stitch.
If the number comes after the stitch name - insert that stitch into the next 'number' stitches. Eg. 1 sc x 3 means that you have to insert 1 sc into the next 3 stitches.
More examples - 
2 dc x 2 means that you have to insert 2 dc (into the same stitch) for the next 2 stitches.
1 hdc x 6 means that you have to insert 1 hdc into the next 6 stitches.
The stitches in asterisks (*) have to be inserted in the same stitch. Eg. *hdc, dc, hdc* means that you have to insert 1 hdc, 1 dc, and 1 hdc into the same stitch.

Please note: if you're confused during any of the steps, you can refer to my youtube tutorial here

Heart-shaped earmuff

- Make a magic ring and ch 2
- Round 1 (insert the following stitches into the magic ring)
3 tc, 4 dc, 1 tc, 4 dc, 3 tc, ch 2, ss into the ring
- Round 2 (insert the following stitches into the stitches from the previous round, start from the top of the ch 2)
1 sc, 2 hdc, 3 hdc, 2 hdc, hdc x 3, 2 hdc, in the same stitch: *hdc, dc, hdc*, 2 hdc, hdc x 3, 2 hdc, 3 hdc, 2 hdc, 1 sc, ss into the ss from the previous round
- Round 3 (insert the following stitches into the stitches from the previous round, start from the sc)
sc x 2, repeat this pattern 3 times: sc, 2 sc, sc x 6, 3 sc, sc x 6, sc x 2, repeat this pattern 3 times: (2 sc, sc), sc x 2, ss into the ss from the previous round
- Round 4 (insert the following stitches into the stitches from the previous round, start from the sc)
ch 1, 1 hdc, hdc x 3, 2 hdc x 4, hdc x 11, *hdc, dc, hdc*, hdc x 11, 2 hdc x 4, hdc x 3, hdc, ss into the ss from the previous round

Daisy flower-shaped earmuff

Make a magic ring and chain 2
- Round 1 (centre of the flower)
Insert 15 dc into the magic ring, ss into the top of the ch 2
- Round 2 (you can continue to make this the centre of the flower like I did OR start the petals with a different color from this round)
ch 1, insert 2 sc in each stitch all around the round (total 30 stitches in this round), ss into the ch 1
- Round 3 (petals of the flower, total 50 stitches)
Attach the yarn color for the petals into the same place as the ss from the previous round, repeat this pattern 5 times to make 5 petals around the round: (sc, hdc, 5 dc in the same stitch, hdc, sc, ss), at the end of the round ss into the ss from the previous round
- Round 4 (petals of the flower, total 60 stitches)
repeat this pattern 5 times to make the 5 petals bigger around the round: (sc x 2, 1 hdc, 2 hdc, 1 hdc, 2 hdc, 1 hdc, sc x 2, ss)

If you want to adjust the size even more, you can follow the original daisy flower coaster pattern by HayHay crochet on YouTube! 

Circle shape for the star earmuff

Please note that you can stop doing rounds when your piece is as big as you want!
Make a magic ring and chain 2
- Round 1 (10)
Insert 10 dc into the magic ring, ss into the top of the ch 2
- Round 2 (20)
Ch 2, insert 2 dc into each stitch all around the round, ss into the top of the ch 2
- Round 3 (30)
Ch 2, repeat this pattern all around the round: (1 dc, 2 dc), ss into the top of the ch 2
- Round 4 (40)
Ch 2, repeat this pattern all around the round: (1 dc, 1 dc, 2 dc), ss into the top of the ch 2
- Round 5 (50)
Ch 2, repeat this pattern all around the round: (1 dc x 3, 2 dc), ss into the top of the ch 2
- Round 6 (60)
Ch 2, repeat this pattern all around the round: (1 dc x 4, 2 dc), ss into the top of the ch 2
- Round 7 (70)
Ch 2, repeat this pattern all around the round: (1 dc x 5, 2 dc), ss into the top of the ch 2
- Round 8 (80)
Ch 2, repeat this pattern all around the round: (1 dc x 6, 2 dc), ss into the top of the ch 2

Star shape for the earmuff (medium size)

Make a magic ring and chain 2
- Round 1 (center of the star)
Insert 14 hdc into the magic ring
- Round 2 (points of the star)
Repeat this pattern 5 times to make 5 points of the star around the round: (ch 5, sc into the 2nd ch from your hook, hdc into the 2nd ch, dc into the 3rd ch, tc into the 4th ch, ss into the 3rd stitch on from your ch to attach the point onto the centre of the star)

Star shape for the earmuff (slightly larger size)

Make a magic ring and chain 2
- Round 1 (center of the star)
Insert 14 dc into the magic ring
- Round 2 (points of the star)
Repeat this pattern 5 times to make 5 points of the star around the round: (ch 5, sc into the 2nd ch from your hook, hdc into the 2nd ch, dc into the 3rd ch, tc into the 4th ch, ss into the 3rd stitch on from your ch to attach the point onto the centre of the star)

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Once you're done with your pieces...

ss through each stitch of both pieces to join them together, you can view how I did this more clearly in my youtube tutorial!

Saturday, July 6, 2024

how to create, design, & crochet ANYTHING with pixel grids - featuring the My Row Counter app!

Hi everyone! My recent YouTube video (a guide on how to crochet grids which you can watch here) featured a lot of tools, methods, and techniques. Here's a clear and quick summary of everything I mentioned in the 40-minute guide.




Step 1: Decide what piece you want to make and its size (including measurements like width and height/length)

For example, a bookmark that has a width of 5 cm and a height of 15 cm.

Step 2: Determine the gauge (the size of your stitch) based on what yarn and hook size you're usin

To do this, crochet a scrap piece with the stitch you want to use for your project. Then, with a ruler/inch tape, record these 2 measurements: the width of 1 stitch and the height of 1 row.

Step 3: Calculate the number of stitches and rows needed for your piece based on the gauge

This part involves a bit of math! To calculate the number of stitches needed, divide the 'width you want' by the 'width of 1 stitch'. To calculate the number of rows needed, divide the 'length/height you want' by the 'height of 1 row'.

Step 4: Create a pixel grid canvas and start designing!

There are 2 ways to do this - If you want to work on your phone/laptop, you can create a blank canvas of grid boxes on https://friendship-bracelets.net/generators/alpha, the width is the number of stitches and the height is the number of rows that you calculated in the previous step. If you'd rather draw, you can use graph/math paper or any paper that has pixel-like boxes. Draw the outline of your piece using the width and height measurements and then color in the boxes to make your design.

For the next 2 steps, I will be using the Row Counter app

Disclosure: This post is sponsored by Row Counter App. All opinions and recommendations are my own.

Quick links to Row Counter app (available to download on iOS & Android):

Website: https://bit.ly/myrowcounter
iOS: https://bit.ly/iosmyrowcounter
Google Play Store: https://bit.ly/androidrowcounter

This app features a lot of handy tools for crocheters (and knitters!) such as:

Row counters (multiple counters per project and you can set reminders for rows as well!). You can import patterns from anywhere into the app (PDFs, Ravelry, Hobbii, Google Drive, and lots more). Highlighter and drawing tool for directly marking important information on your imported pattern. A bunch of free and accessible crochet and knit patterns are also available on the app (including the pattern for my 'lover' shoulder bag which you can view here!) 


Step 5: Preview what your pixel grid design will look like using the 'chart' tool on the My Row Counter app, make adjustments depending on the preview!

You can find the chart tool in the 'pattern creator' when you choose to add content. Replicate your pixel grid design on the chart (using the same stitch/colors that you'll use for your final piece) then click on 'chart preview' to see what your work will look like without having to actually crochet it! You can make adjustments to the chart as necessary.



Step 6: Create a pattern using the 'pattern creator' tool on the Row Counter app

If your project is made up of different pieces (for example, a front and back piece), add 'parts' to your pattern. Then add the 'chart' to your pattern featuring your pixel grid design. Next, using the 'text' content tool, add instructions for each row of your pixel grid. Count how many stitches of each color you have to do (by counting the boxes in the grid) before you switch to the next color, and how many stitches of that color you'll have to do next. For example, the pattern for a row might go something like this: 4 sc with white, 1 sc with pink, 5 sc with white, 3 sc with pink. I recommend doing this so that you can easily continue crocheting your rows rather than stopping after every row and painstakingly counting the boxes and keeping track of rows manually.

Step 7: Follow the grid to crochet your piece using any method you're comfortable with

In the YouTube tutorial, I go over 2 methods: carrying your yarn as you crochet and leaving it to dangle on the wrong side until you need to use that color again. I also show you how and when to switch colors, so I recommend watching that part of the video which starts at 14:38

Here's a bunch of idea boards on Pinterest for inspiration for your pixel grid crochet piece...

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Pixel grid ideas: https://pin.it/5iCoWfb Crochet pieces ideas: https://pin.it/2TGj2vZ

Happy crocheting! - Love, Mahum

Thursday, July 4, 2024

matching pair of heart bookmarks - crochet pattern & tutorial

Hi everyone! Here's the written pattern for bookmarks for both sides of the heart (left & right). This is a companion pattern to my YouTube tutorial which you can watch here to understand how to switch colors. These bookmarks will also make the cutest little gifts for you & your reader friends/family!

Abbreviations & materials used:

sc - single crochet / ch - chain / BC - background color / CC - contrasting color (color of the heart) / I used a 4.5 mm hook & 100% acrylic yarn to make my bookmarks sturdy. If you want to adjust the size of these bookmarks (eg. make the heart bigger or the bookmark wider), you can learn how to create & crochet with your own pixel grids from this tutorial of mine.

Bookmark 1 (heart's right side)

Row 1: start with a slip knot and ch 6, sc into the 2nd ch from your hook, insert 1 sc into every ch (total 6 stitches in each row which is the same number of boxes in the pixel grid)

Row 2 - 10: insert 1 sc into every stitch with BC

Row 11: sc 6 with BC, switch colors to CC on 6th stitch

Row 12: sc 1 CC, switch colors on 1st stitch, sc 5 with BC

Row 13: sc 4 with BC, switch on 4th, sc 2 with CC

Row 14: sc 3 with CC, switch on 3rd, sc 3 with BC

Row 15: sc 2 with BC, switch on 2nd, sc 4 with CC

Row 16: sc 5 with CC, switch on 5th, sc 1 with BC

Row 17: sc 2 with BC, switch on 2nd, sc 3 with CC, switch on 3rd, sc 1 with BC

Row 18 - 28: sc 6 with BC

Bookmark 2 (heart's left side)

Row 1: start with a slip knot and ch 6, sc into the 2nd ch from your hook, insert 1 sc into every ch (total 6 stitches in each row which is the same number of boxes in the pixel grid)

Row 2 - 11: insert 1 sc into every stitch with BC

Row 12: sc 5 with BC, switch on 5th, sc 1 with CC

Row 13: sc 2 with CC, switch on 2nd, sc 4 with BC

Row 14: sc 3 with BC, switch on 3rd, sc 3 with CC

Row 15: sc 4 with CC, switch on 4th, sc 2 with BC

Row 16: sc 1 with BC, switch on 1st, sc 5 with CC, switch on 5th

Row 17: sc 1 with BC, switch on 1st, sc 3 with CC, switch on 3rd, sc 2 with BC

Row 18 - 28: sc 6 with BC

Happy reading & crocheting! - Lots of love, Mahum


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how to crochet a cute bucket hat of any size (customisable &amp; beginner friendly pattern)

Hi everyone! With this pattern, you can crochet yourself or your pets (or stuffed animals!) a bucket hat with a really cute frilly trim.  A ...